The Japanese are getting a little soft.
Two avant-garde Japanese
designers, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto, veered from
their old tricks - asymmetrical hems, ragbag layers, somber colors and missing
sleeves - in their spring '91 collections Thursday.
Both showed a
kinder, gentler side: long layers of sheer chiffon, silk and lace; crocheted
capri-length catsuits under apron dresses; midcalf jersey sheaths and schoolgirl
smocked and gathered shorts suits.
Both collections ranged from the
predictable black, latex
pants,white and gray (dyed with sumi, a calligrapher's ink at Comme des
Garcons) to the glare of Yamamoto's bright blue and green mod kimono pantsuits
and crocheted jackets tossed over black capri catsuits.
Even the popular
print trend appeared in the Japanese shows. Comme des Garcons showed
stained-glass mosaic and gemstone prints on sheer chiffon and silk jersey;
Yamamoto stuck to brown and black polka-dotted silk.
''Because the times
are so difficult,'' explains Marion Greenberg of Comme des Garcons, ''Rei
decided to keep the collection very light, with a feeling of fantasy.''
Frivolous nonsense, you say? Perhaps.
But before you laugh off these
flights of fancy, remember: Both designers were doing work-ethic aprons and
overalls - seen in every Paris collection so far this week - two years ago.
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